TC Tri-Cities Appliance Pro
Gas and electric cooking

Oven, range and cooktop repair for gas and electric kitchens

Cooking appliances fail in ways that depend on the fuel. Gas ranges mostly give trouble at ignition, electric ones at elements, switches and relays, and both share sensors, door locks and control boards. Our technicians work on wall ovens, cooktops and ranges, freestanding or slide-in, gas or electric.

Book a visit(509) 890-7433

Mon–Sat 8 AM–7 PM · Sunday closed · same-day or next-day visits are often open; the office confirms when you call

Gas or electric rangesWall ovens and cooktops tooPrice approved before work

Book a repair visit

What needs fixing?
When suits you?

Arrival window

Where should we come?

The office calls to confirm the day and window. You see the price in writing and approve it before the repair starts.

  • Test first, then the priceOn paper, approved by you before work
  • Your day, your windowBook online or by phone; we confirm
  • Common parts on the truckOften fixed on that first trip
  • Written warrantyOn the repair we make
Short answer

The repairs we make most on cooking appliances are a weak igniter in a gas oven, a burnt-out bake element in an electric one, a cooktop burner that won't light or won't shut off, and a temperature sensor or control relay that throws the oven off. When you call, the office books a window, the technician tests the circuit behind your symptom, and you get a written price to approve before work begins.

Symptoms we fix

Range and oven problems, by symptom

01

Gas oven slow to come up to temperature, or not lighting

Usually: Most gas ovens use a glowing hot-surface igniter that doubles as the safety switch for the gas valve. With age it keeps glowing, yet the current it pulls falls below what the valve needs to open, so the oven lights late or not at all.

What we do: We measure the igniter's current draw and resistance rather than judging it by the glow, then test the safety valve if the igniter checks out. Igniters are part of the regular stock on our trucks, so this repair is usually done in one visit.

02

Burner keeps clicking, or clicks but won't light

Usually: Nonstop clicking usually means a spill has soaked a spark switch or a burner cap sits off-center, so the module keeps firing. Clicking with no flame usually means the burner ports are clogged, the electrode is cracked or the spark module is weak.

What we do: Let a wet cooktop dry out fully and reseat the caps; that clears many cases. If it doesn't, we test the switches, clean the ports, check the electrode gap and spark, and replace a failing module or switch harness.

03

Electric oven won't bake, but the broiler works

Usually: On an exposed bake element, a blister or break in the coil is easy to see; a hidden element under the oven floor gives no visible sign when it fails. If the element tests good, the next suspects are a control board relay that has stuck closed or a burnt wire behind the oven.

What we do: We test the element's resistance, measure the voltage reaching it during a bake call, and inspect the terminal connections at the back of the cavity, where heat often burns them. The failed part, element, wire or relay, is what gets replaced.

04

Oven runs hot or cold, or bakes unevenly

Usually: The oven reads its heat through a temperature sensor, and an aging sensor drifts. Food also cooks differently when the door gasket is worn, the door sags, or the convection fan is weak.

What we do: We check the cavity with our own thermometer, measure the sensor's resistance against the specification for that model, and inspect the gasket and hinges. A drifting sensor gets replaced, and a small offset can often be corrected in the control's calibration setting.

05

Surface element that won't turn down, or won't heat

Usually: Electric cooktop burners are run by infinite switches, which wear out and either weld shut or stop making contact. Coil burners also scorch their receptacles, and radiant elements under glass can crack or lose their limiter.

What we do: Turn off the range's breaker if a burner won't shut off, because an element stuck on full heat is a fire risk. We then test the switch and element, check the receptacle and wiring for heat damage, and replace what failed.

06

Oven died after a self-clean cycle

Usually: Self-clean runs the oven far hotter than baking does. That heat can blow the oven's thermal fuse, leave the door lock motor stuck in the locked position, or overheat the control board.

What we do: The thermal fuse and door lock assembly get checked first, followed by the control board and its cooling fan. After the repair, we suggest shorter clean cycles, or using steam-clean instead on ovens that offer it.

07

Display blank, beeping or showing an error

Usually: Touch panels fail when the membrane under the keys wears or moisture gets behind it, and control boards fail from heat or power surges. A blank display can also be a blown fuse or a connection shaken loose when the range was moved.

What we do: We confirm the board is getting power, test the keypad and its harness, and pull up the fault history stored in the control. A board is only replaced after its inputs have been tested, since a bad sensor can make a good board look faulty.

08

Gas smell, or a yellow, lazy flame

Usually: A strong gas smell can mean a leak and must be dealt with before any repair. A yellow or lifting flame usually means a dirty burner, an air shutter out of adjustment, or a range still set up for a different fuel after a move.

What we do: With a strong smell, leave the house and phone your gas utility from outdoors; we come once they've made it safe. For flame problems, we clean and adjust the burners, confirm the orifices match your fuel, and leak-check the connections we touched.

What to expect

How a stove or oven visit runs

Scheduling the visit

Pick your day and arrival window online or talk to the office by phone. When the kitchen is down to a microwave, ask for the earliest opening; same-day and next-day slots come up often, and the office confirms them during the call. Tell us whether it's gas or electric and whether it's a range, wall oven or cooktop.

Arrival and parts

The technician rings you while en route. Igniters, valves and switches are among the parts carried, which covers many gas oven and burner repairs on the spot. Control boards and model-specific elements are often ordered, and those are priced in writing before we place the order.

Testing at the range

We run the bake, broil or burner that's giving trouble and watch the sequence, then put a meter on the igniter, element, sensor or switch involved. For a freestanding range we may pull it forward to reach the connections behind, taking care with your floor and the anti-tip bracket.

The written price and your call

Before any tools come out, the repair price is put in writing as one figure. If you approve, the diagnostic fee is absorbed into it; say no and that fee is the only thing you pay, with our findings in hand. Every repair we make is backed by a written warranty.

Kitchens, remodels and dust in Tri-Cities homes

Many kitchens here have been remodeled into older layouts. In central Richland, most of the wartime alphabet houses now have updated kitchens, and today's ranges often sit in openings, and on outlets or gas stubs, sized for an earlier generation of appliance. When a range has been swapped in, the technician makes sure the anti-tip bracket is in place, the power cord or gas connector isn't kinked behind it, and a gas range is configured for the fuel it is actually connected to. Manufactured homes, a meaningful share of Benton City housing, often have tight kitchen alcoves with little room behind the range, so we ease those ranges out carefully to reach the connections.

The high desert leaves its mark on cooking appliances too. Fine dust carried in on windy days settles in cooktop burner ports and in the cooling fan intakes of wall ovens and electronic controls, and a control that runs hot tends to fail sooner. Summer heat that can reach 100°F or more adds to the load on a kitchen where the oven is already running. Keeping burner ports clean and the area around oven vents clear helps. To see what we cover near you, visit stove and oven repair in Richland or Pasco stove repair.

When is a range worth repairing?

Ranges and ovens are long-lived. The parts that usually fail, igniters, elements, switches, sensors, door locks and spark modules, are made to be replaced, while the cavity, burners and cabinet rarely wear out. That makes most range repairs worthwhile.

The closer calls are an older electronic range whose main control board has died, especially once that board is out of production, and a cracked glass cooktop, which is a large part to replace. Rust through the oven floor or damaged cavity insulation also points toward replacement. Our technician tells you which situation you're in and writes down the repair price, giving you a firm number to weigh against a new range. Read how pricing works for the details.

Service area

Stove / oven repair by town

Stove / oven repair in Kennewick

99336 · 99337 · 99338

Stove / oven repair in Pasco

99301

Stove / oven repair in Richland

99352 · 99354

Stove / oven repair in West Richland

99353

Stove / oven repair in Benton City

99320

Brands we see on these calls

GEWhirlpoolFrigidaireLGSamsungKitchenAidBoschMaytagElectrolux
FAQ

Questions we hear

Is a cracked glass cooktop safe to use?

No. Through a crack, spills can get down to the elements and wiring below, and the crack can grow once the glass heats. Stop using the cracked burner, and preferably the whole cooktop, until it has been assessed. On many models the glass top is replaceable as a separate part; our technician confirms the part can be had and writes down its price for you before ordering it.

Are wall ovens and built-in cooktops part of what you fix?

Yes. We handle single and double wall ovens and built-in cooktops as well as slide-in and freestanding ranges, gas and electric. Wall ovens are reached by sliding them partly out of the cabinet, so the visit can take longer; tell the office it's a wall oven when you book so the technician plans for it.

What does it mean when a gas oven is slow to light?

A slow light means the igniter is struggling to open the gas valve, and extra gas can collect before it catches, which sometimes causes a small whoosh. Stop using the oven until the igniter is replaced. If you notice a gas smell that doesn't clear quickly, leave the house and contact your gas utility before anything else.

Which range brands do you repair?

We see GE, Whirlpool, Frigidaire, KitchenAid, Maytag, LG, Bosch, Electrolux, Kenmore and Samsung ranges. Most use similar igniters, elements and sensors, and our technicians stock the common ones. For models with unusual controls, we confirm part availability before writing the repair price, so you know what to expect.

Should the self-clean cycle be avoided?

Use it sparingly. Self-clean holds the oven at very high heat for a long time, and that stretch of heat is when many control boards, door locks and thermal fuses give out. Wiping spills early, choosing a short or steam clean when available, and staying home while it runs all reduce the risk of a breakdown.

Can you fix an oven door that won't close or a broken hinge?

Yes. Worn or broken hinges let the door sag, which lets heat escape and throws off cooking times. We replace hinges and door gaskets and check that the door seats evenly. If the inner glass has come loose or the door itself is damaged, we look up the parts for your model and include them in your written price.

Ready to get it running again?

Book a stove or oven repair online or call (509) 890-7433, and let us know whether it's gas or electric.

Book a visitCall (509) 890-7433
CallBook a visit